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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.